Twin Commander flown by Erick Teeters & John Kelley. 
Overhead Churchill, Manitoba, Canada, a town with more polar bears than people. Photo by Jonathan Weiswasser
If someone said, “Let’s go to Churchill, Manitoba,” what would you say?
The only way to get to Churchill is a 44-hour train ride or a flight on Calm Air from Winnipeg, or by flying private. Churchill is a town on Hudson Bay in the far north of Manitoba, Canada, population 870, located 70 miles south of the Arctic Circle. So, you ask yourself, “Why go there?” Of course, Air Journey always responds with, “Why not?”
This was Air Journey’s inaugural self-flying pilot adventure to Hudson Bay, and what a trip it was. Four light jets, two single-engine turboprops, and 16 adventurers (including two Air Journey directors) from many distant airports joined the Polar Bear & Beluga Whale Encounters 2023 excursion in early August.
Our group officially started the journey at the historic Fort Garry Hotel in Winnipeg, Canada, getting to know each other over a welcome cocktail and a fabulous dinner in the Oval Room Brasserie.
The next day we embarked for our first stop—Churchill. When we landed at Churchill Airport (CYYQ), we discovered an airport with three employees—the fuel truck driver, the gate attendant, and air traffic control. All employees are at the airport when a flight arrives, otherwise, the airport is closed. We had to radio the tower for the door code so we could leave the area. There is the use of a large red wagon for baggage. Staff from our lodgings for the next three nights at Lazy Bear Lodge were there waiting for us.
Staying at the Lazy Bear Lodge was like going back to camp. Photo by Beth Harlow
Upon our arrival and while driving to the lodge, it became clear this was going to be a trip where we had to expect the unexpected. One can read about the area and look at the pictures, but none of us were ready or prepared for the visual and physical wonders in and around this town situated on the western shore of the bay. Each day brought a new adventure.
The Lazy Bear Lodge is a log cabin hotel that made us feel like we were back in summer camp—nostalgic of our youth. The entire hotel is made of lodge pole pine. No plastic or man-made materials were used in the making of the lodge floor-to-ceiling. The lodge staff gave us a camp name of “Muskox.” What is a muskox? We even had lanyards with our camp name on them. I think we all agreed it had been a very long time since any of us were at camp, but knowing that enhanced the whole experience.
On the first day in Churchill, we took a catamaran boat ride to look at the beluga whales while hoping to spot a polar bear. Around 3,000 beluga whales are found in Hudson Bay/Churchill River, so this was not your typical whale-spotting experience. There were so many whales all around our boat—beautiful white males and females, many with their gray babies swimming alongside.
And, yes, we did get to see a polar bear on our first day! Being that close to a wild, man-eating animal was a real thrill. Of course, the bears don’t pay much attention to us as they have no predators, so they are very comfortable in their environment. It’s not surprising Churchill is nicknamed Polar Bear Capital of the World.
Visitors are taught to give the polar bears a wide berth. Photo by Ann Megler
Every day, as usual at camp, an activity was scheduled. Aqua Gliding was an activity we were unfamiliar with but anxious to try. In the back of a Zodiac, they tied an 8-foot by 10-foot foam mat for campers to lay on. Mind you, it’s a somewhat funny sight as we are outfitted in full-body, 3/16” wet suits and face masks.
As the Zodiac slowly traveled along, the belugas would investigate the people on the mat. The belugas have the cutest smiley face. We were told to make high-frequency noises to get their attention. Alas, there was no need to do this because they approached us from all sides, talking back to us. The water was cold, but we didn’t mind: being face to face with a beluga was extraordinary.
The Aqua Gliding mat looks funny but it offers outstanding views of the beluga whales. Photo by Ruth Pulju
Kayaking was also an activity available to get us close to the whales. While kayaking, the whales got very close to us. Almost close enough to touch. Touching the whales, of course, is forbidden, and the Lazy Bear guides are super focused on the conservation and preservation of wildlife. Their efforts are to be applauded. At all times they did not want to bother the wildlife and would not let us bother them either. A bit of bother may have occurred when, on an outing to an island, the Muskox group felt the need to sing the catchy theme song from “Gilligan’s Island.” I hope our singing didn’t bother the whales too much!
Unexpected Light Show
The Northern Lights were an unexpected bonus to the trip, and Air Journey ordered them right on time. This atmospheric phenomenon is regarded as the Holy Grail of sky-watching. If you have yet to witness it, the natural light show, known as the Aurora Borealis, features beautiful dancing waves of light that have captivated people for millennia.
To be assured of seeing this incredible nighttime exhibition in the sky, we signed up to get a phone call from our guide when the lights started. We were lucky—the lights showed up three nights in a row at 11:30. A couple of us stepped outside the Lazy Bear Lodge in our pajamas and turned our eyes skyward (a familiar gesture to us aviators, but this time we were met this visual delight absent the drone of an aircraft engine).
The travelers were given an incredible show of the Northern Lights every night in Churchill. Photo by Ruth Pulju
Others ventured further from camp and took a Lazy Bear Lodge bus to the beach two blocks away to see the lights because locals and visitors are discouraged from walking at night to avoid a polar bear wandering through town after hours. Needless to say, the photos turned out fabulous.
Polar Bear 101
A mother polar bear and her cub. Photo by Ruth Pulju
Churchill has a few guidelines to live by to coexist with wildlife. A favorite one pertains to cars. All cars are required to remain unlocked. Many residents leave their homes unlocked also. There is a good reason for this. There are more than 900 polar bears in the area—more bears than people. When a polar bear comes to town, and they do, and you can’t seek shelter in a nearby building—you are told to run and get into any car to get away from the bear. We were also told to stay on the main roads and not to walk at night. Terrifying to some, exciting to us!
At 10 p.m. a short siren sounds to alert the town of the time and ensure the siren is working. If the horn goes off any other time, that is a message to the townspeople a polar bear is roaming the streets. In previous times, the locals would have shot and killed a polar bear that might have wandered through town.
In today’s world, the bears are tranquilized for a brief amount of time and then placed in polar bear “jail” for at least 30 days. After the bear’s time in the holding facility is served, it’s tranquilized gain, and airlifted back into the wild away from town. The reason for this jail time? It resets their brain, and most don’t ever enter the area again.
The day had arrived. On our last day in Churchill, we all climbed up into the tundra trawler to view the wilds of the area. Beyond seeing beautiful flora and fauna, our main mission that day was to find polar bears. (Our bear sighting on our first day while searching for belugas was an unexpected bonus.)
The tundra trawler sits up high so no polar bears can climb aboard. It’s also equipped with a heater, bathroom, and a back outside deck area for getting closer to the bears. On board we had a wildlife photographer with us, which ended up being to our advantage. Around five miles out of town we spotted a two-year-old cub laying in the sun. To get good pictures the photographer is allowed to use a drone to get the polar bear’s attention, all while being careful not to harass the bear. The hope was that the cub would stand up. As children are, this bear was curious and got up to observe the drone.
Of course, where there’s a cub there’s a momma bear. We weren’t disappointed. The momma bear came on the scene to see what her cub was interested in. We were very close and had to stay quiet to avoid disturbing the pair. While the mother was bored with what her cub was doing, you can imagine that we were all thrilled. The cub rolled playfully in the flowers, not a care in the world. We all agreed then and there that there are no words to describe how out-of-this-world this trip to Churchill was.
Onward
Sunrise over Lake Louise by Ann Megler
After the four short days in Churchill, we took off for Calgary (CYYC) for our next leg of the adventure. The flight was smooth, with a little smoke in the air from the Canadian wildfires. The subarctic environment and rustic and authentic Lazy Bear Lodge were replaced by Banff National Park, Lake Louise and the Fairmont Chateau Hotel. The park is part of the Canadian Rocky Mountains UNESCO World Heritage Site.
What an exquisite setting and hotel. We had no idea how popular Lake Louise is. People come from all over the globe to snap pictures of themselves beside this incredible lake, and it’s obvious why. The colors change at different times of year depending on which glacier feeds the lake, making for dynamic and breathtaking scenery year-round.
On our first day we embarked on a half-mile hike up to the Plain of Six Glaciers Tea House in the mountains. Built in the 1920s by the Canadian Pacific Railway, it’s one of the two historic tea houses in the area. As you can guess, there are plenty of hiking trails around Lake Louise. The tea house hike was just one of many we enjoyed during out stay.
The second day at the Fairmont was meant for relaxation. As we were no longer at “camp,” we could choose activities from hiking and canoeing to spa treatments. Lake Louise is stunning, and depending on the hour, the aquamarine lake turns different colors. Dinner was at the nearby Post Hotel restaurant—truly an epicurean delight. The next night we enjoyed a scrumptious fondue dinner at the Fairmont’s Walliser Stube restaurant to say our final farewells.
For a first-time itinerary and not knowing what would be the outcome, this Air Journey trip was a hit. We can’t wait to do it again. Be sure to visit www.airjourney.com to learn about the many unique self-flying pilot adventures available throughout the year and into 2024.
Frank Harlow is an ATP, CFI, and MEII with multiple jet type ratings. Frank has made many Atlantic and Pacific crossings, traveling around the world. He and his wife Beth are proud parents of three wonderful adult children.
Lake Louise from a room at the hotel by Jim Pulju
